My post on drawing in perspective is still wildly popular. So much so that I even took that knowledge and used it for my setting studies. However, I ended up learning that exterior perspective is a little different from interior perspective. With some research, I set the record straight. And now, I’m sharing that little secret with you. ;)
Quick Refresher: What’s Perspective?
In case you’re new to SRS InkFeather or drawing in general, I’ll give you some definitions and explanations before we get into the good stuff.
There’s two dimensions you can draw: 2D flat and 3D lifelike. Since paper and tablet screens are flat, 2D is the default. However, if you want to create a more 3-dimensional piece, you can create this illusion using shading for atmospheric perspective (the appearance of something) and perspective drawing.
Perspective drawing is linear and based on how a viewer perceives a thing. Imagine looking out to the horizon; the sky and ground will appear to meet and this is what we call a horizon line. Perspective drawing is based on points along this horizon line. For exteriors, you look at how points meet. When going through these interiors, you’ll find there’s more diverging.
1-Point Perspective: Full Frontal
We’ll stick with the house theme from the exterior post, except drawing the foyer. Just like with exteriors, the basics of this first perspective will help you down the road. Sorry about the odd angle of the video; still learning to work my tripod.
After drawing your horizon line, mark one point near the middle of your page. Using a ruler, draw two diagonals that meet at the point and continue off the page. Next, draw your back wall, using the diagonals as corners. Time to add details.
All verticals and horizontals will be parallel to the page edges. When creating edges that go along with the wall (the frame and side table), use your point to help maintain the angles. I normally “guesstimate” some details like the table legs and inside of frame, but you can use a ruler or triangle to get the exact mark. Be sure to reaffirm the mark every once in a while so you don’t lose it amongst your lines. Otherwise, it’s as easy as that.
2-Point Perspective: Corner View
2-point is probably my favorite of the three and the one I use the most for setting studies. A lot more angles to work with and the lighting/shadow is more interesting.
Once you’ve got your horizon line, mark two points that are pretty far from each other. This will look similar to the exterior and you’ll wonder if you did it wrong, so hang tight. Draw two diagonals from each point, headed toward each other. These lines should meet at a similar spot near the middle. Draw that vertical and you have the inside corner of your interior. The continued diagonals are your walls.
Verticals are parallel to the page, but all other lines will be based on the two outer points. Similarly to the exterior, you use both points to define a shape that’s on the wall or coming off/in the wall. The other thing to note is distortion. If you look at my work, you’ll see a table or shelf that appears poorly manufactured. The closer your objects get to the points, the more vertical the linework. Passing behind the points will change the angle (oblique rather than acute) and create a warp if you have the object on either side. I suggest avoiding the warp and pushing your points as far as you can to the edges.
3-Point Perspective: Kinda Funky
The ever complicated 3-point. I never use 3-point exteriors and have definitely never used 3-point interiors. But we may as well try. The camera angle’s pretty bad here, but I tried to get all the points in the video.
Your horizon line will need to be higher/lower on your page to accommodate a point below/above for the third point. So you should have two points on the horizon and one above or below the horizon. The difference is simple: third point above means a bird’s eye view, third point below means a worm’s eye view. Two diagonals for each point on the horizon line. Your third point will dictate their intersection and, if you want, the wall length.
All verticals are based on the third point. Anything you want to add must be measured from all three points. Which is a lot of guidelines. Distortion works the same way as 2-point perspective; get too close or far behind the points and objects will look warped. Another tip: despite the distance between my points being about the same as the other two, this interior is a lot smaller. To account for all the points and get a decent sized interior, you’ll need to spread all three point out pretty far. Otherwise, it’s pretty simple. A lot of work, but simple.
Final Thoughts: Rulers, Triangles, and String
Perspective drawing for interiors has become second nature. However, I don’t do anything without a ruler or triangle. For small sketches or even 18″ x 24″ newsprint (my “weapon” of choice), a ruler and large triangle work wonders and ensure straight, clean, accurate lines. I also use a 2H or 4H pencil for guides to prevent having to sort lots of lines. If you have a bigger canvas, string has a similar effect. Attach one end of a long string to your point. Pull it taut to wherever you’re trying to draw and it’ll give you an accurate angle without all the lines.